Stein "Blauschiefer" Trocken Riesling, Mosel, Germany 2023

FROM VOM BODEN: THE WINE: From his prime holdings in the village of Sankt-Aldegund from average vines of 60 years, ungrafted and on steep slopes. As the label indicates this wine is a calling card for Blue Slate (Blauschiefer), rocks pulverized into liquid form with a brisk and beautiful acidity. Totally dry or “Trocken”. THE PRODUCER: Ulli (and now his young protégé Philip Lardot) farms meaningful parcels of land that have a few important things in common: They are not easy to work. They are commercially unknown and therefore (most likely) barely financially viable. Finally, and most importantly: Ulli has to love them. Stein is more than a winemaker - he is a passionate advocate for the traditional, steep, slate vineyards of the Mosel. Winemaking with Ulli is refreshingly light on "style," on some idea projected into the vineyards, and more about what the vineyards say to him. Certainly there is a focus on wines that are dry; lightness and zip are more important than gobs of fruit. Cu