Mythique Vetyver

Traditionally valued in masculine perfumery for its fresh but rugged presence, vetiver has been done more times than we care to count. But this is Alberto Morillas’ take, and for a man who’s penned modern masterpieces ranging from the ultra-fresh CK One to the saffron chai oriental of Bvlgari’s Omnia, we’ll gladly take a ticket and get in line. For a vetiver fragrance, the first surprise is that Mythique Vetiver not a very vetivery vetiver. Rather, vetiver weaves in and out of the picture, a ghostly image suggested by the other materials in the composition. A mouth-puckeringly bitter opening of bergamot and lemon over a palette of matte, smoky greens, for example, points in the direction of fresh, traditional takes on vetiver such as Guerlain Vetiver and Malle’s Vetiver Extraordinaire. But focus and you’ll notice that the raw rootiness of vetiver is kept to a minimum, consigned to the background. In the heart, the minty rosiness of geranium bourbon and patchouli enfold the vetiver, add