2013 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo, "Anno Primo", Ghemme DOCG

Cantalupo is the reference-point producer in the tiny Ghemme appellation in Northern Piedmont and this stellar 2013 is a transporting expression of the Nebbiolo grape. The Ghemme zone occupies a gently sloping ridge following the contours of the Sesia River, a tributary of the Pò that originates in the Alps along the Swiss border. Soils are glacial moraine, strewn with mineral-laden porphyry rock. The Arlunno family farmed vineyards in the area for generations before the foundation of Cantalupo in 1977; since 1981 Alberto Arlunno has helmed the family property, growing its vineyard holdings to 35 hectares. And while the Ghemme DOCG discipline allows for up to 15% of local varieties such as Vespolina and Uva Rara to be blended with Nebbiolo, Cantalupo’s “Anno Primo” is 100% Nebbiolo aged 24 months in 1,500- and 3,000-liter Slavonian oak vats. That’s effectively the same regimen as Barolo, and it shows: In the glass, it is a trademark Nebbiolo garnet with brick orange at the rim. Aroma