2014 Oscar Tobia, Rioja Gran Reserva

At the head of Bodegas Tobía is one Oscar Tobía. In a region that places immense emphasis on tradition, Oscar stands out for his innovation and relentless tinkering. Nothing is sacrosanct for him. Alongside the American oak preferred by Rioja classicists you’ll find more discrete and elegant French barrels; reds ferment in a mix of old-school cement and high-tech stainless tanks that capture the CO2 produced by fermentation; whites often go into barrels made from rarely-seen wood like acacia or ash. With his endless experimentation, he’s had a palpable impact on the region as a whole: his barrel-fermented 1996 “Alma Tobía” rosé prompted the regulatory authorities to amend the category and allow oak influence in the wines. And despite Bodegas Tobía’s relative youth, it’s got a pedigree most century-old wineries would be envious of. Oscar himself is a fourth-generation winegrower, and he began his eponymous winery only after doing extensive studies in France. He knew what he was looking