2022 Weingut Hirsch, Kammern Kamptal DAC Grüner Veltliner

Weingut Hirsch’s Grüner Veltliner “Kammern” doesn’t need any kind of fancy lead-in. Most Austrian wine aficionados probably aren’t even reading this introduction, they’re just zooming straight to the “Add To Cart” button–because this is a bottle of Grüner produced by one of the undeniable masters of the variety, hailing from not one but four of the best sites in all of Austria. It’s everything we love about Grüner–the herbaceous savor, the peppery kick, the deep refreshment–with an added level of complexity, refinement, and terroir transparency. Typically when we speak of Grüner and its relative value, we mean it’s priced easy enough to drink everyday. But “Kammern” represents the other type of value, wherein seriously elite-level juice can be had for a decidedly non-elite price. Think of it as the Austrian equivalent to the affordable Bourgogne Blanc we all know the producer has snuck some 1er Cru fruit into. You’re going to want to have plenty of Hirsch’s “Kammern” on hand, delicious