Weingut Karl Erbes, “Ürziger Würzgarten” Riesling Spätlese

On the red-wine side, I’ve said many times that it’s hard to beat Bordeaux for logic-defying value. And when it comes to white wines, nothing can touch German Riesling. Just how much history, exceptional terroir, and hands-on craftsmanship can one estate pack into a $25 bottle of wine? The answer is on shimmering, awe-inspiring display in this Spätlese-level bottling from the tiny Weingut Karl Erbes. Yes, this is a traditional spätlese from the spectacular Mosel River Valley, meaning it contains some residual sweetness, but, thanks to the magic of both the Mosel region and the Riesling grape, it doesn’t really behave like a “sweet” wine. This is an abundantly fruity and astoundingly aromatic wine with so much finishing acidity that any residual sweetness is spirited away faster than you can say the name of the source vineyard: “Ürziger Würzgarten.” As some of you may know, this grosse lage (“grand cru”) site in the Mosel village of Ürzig features one of the most dramatically steep pitc