Dönnhoff, Riesling Kabinett ‘Oberhäuser Leistenberg’

“I make wines for myself, not for the market,” says owner Helmut Dönnhoff, whose mineral-driven, classically-styled wines constantly deliver profound depth and equilibrium. The 2019 Leistenberg Kabinett radiates a shimmering yellow-gold core with silver and neon green reflections dancing along the rim. The nose bursts with succulent yellow peach, lemon blossom, lime zest, quince, golden apple, guava, melon, honeysuckle, crushed slate, oyster shell, a touch of petrol, and a lingering mineral presence—you can expect the last two to become more pungent with additional bottle age. The palate reveals a dense wine with an electrifying jolt of acidity that dovetails the residual sugars. For a Kabinett, the integration here is in a class of its own. This is a wonderful treat to consume now but can go the distance for another five to seven years. Buy a case, enjoy a handful (or two) now, and forget about the rest. When consuming, do so just below cellar temperature and allow the wine to open up