Quinta da Boavista, “Terras de Tavares”

Historic producers like Quinta da Boavista are the heart and soul of wine, and experiencing this evocative, just-released 2002 red creates a memory of a lifetime. I fully believe that if you have this wine once, it will stay with you forever. It’s always exciting to nail the blind tasting trifecta of vintage, grape, and region, but the rarest skill of all is singling out the specific producer. Granted, only a tiny percentage of people in the world can do this and even fewer producers can craft such a distinctive bottle of wine, but after trying “Terras de Tavares” you’ll be able to achieve this rare feat if ever presented with it again.The aromatics are astounding, perplexing, even—is this a top old-school Barolo?—and I remained fixated on my glass as the wine’s importer recounted its incredible creation: All-natural vines that are at least 80 years old; winemaking without intervention; and extended barrel/bottle aging all contribute to this wine’s inimitable character. For over a deca