Wegeler, Graacher Riesling, Feinherb

German Riesling is magic. Few if any other white grapes offer such a diversity of expressions (well, maybe Loire Chenin Blanc), and in each the common denominator is acid—perhaps diminished in some of the really sweet incarnations but never extinguished. Riesling’s uncommon natural acidity produces wines that force us to confront what “sweet” and “dry” really mean, how those definitions vary from person to person, and how even the wines with very pronounced sugar levels manage to “finish” dry, or almost so.Thinking of a hint of sweetness as a “bad” thing in a wine, especially a German Riesling, is a thing of the past: This 2015 Riesling ‘Feinherb’ (‘off-dry’) from Wegeler is a joyful, delectable, surprisingly complex white wine, and its hint of residual sugar only heightens its charm. It is made from fruit sourced entirely from Graacher-Himmelreich, one of Germany’s most prized vineyards, which is thought of as a ‘Grand Cru’ and usually carries a much higher price tag. I want several c