Weingut Lothar Kettern, Riesling Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Kabinett

Mosel Riesling in great vintages is as intellectual as it is sensual: The balance of sugar and acid is kind of mind-boggling, challenging your perception of “sweet” versus “dry” in a way that no other grape can. And yes, 2010 was a great vintage: one of the best of the last decade. Combine that with one of Germany’s most iconic vineyard sites—Piesporter Goldtröpfchen—and you get this stunning Riesling from Weingut Lothar Kettern.This 2010 carries a ‘Kabinett’ designation, the lowest level on the traditional prädikat ripeness scale, meaning it is just “off-dry,” balancing a small amount of residual sugar on acidity that’s as taut as a piano wire. Not only is this wine delicious to drink now, I foresee it aging beautifully for decades. The vineyard source for this wine, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, translates to “little drop of gold.” On the steep northern banks where the Mosel River takes a sharp curve, this vineyard occupies a near vertical amphitheater around the ancient village of Piesp