Evesham Wood, Pinot Noir, Illahe Vineyard

I can’t count the number of times we’ve referred to an Oregon Pinot Noir as “Burgundian.” I’d describe today’s wine from Evesham Wood thusly, but after numerous visits to the Willamette Valley, I’ve been searching for new ways to describe and celebrate these wines.It’s true that the wines of the region are often quite Burgundian— still the highest compliment one can pay a Pinot Noir (or Chardonnay)—but I don’t think the objective of any Oregon Pinot producer is to mimic the flavor profile of Chambolle-Musigny or Vosne-Romanée and call it a win. It’s not so much a literal, apples-to-apples comparison as it is a kind of spiritual connection: The wines are kindred in terms of their proportions and their ability to communicate soil character as effectively as varietal character. And in the case of producers like Evesham Wood, they’re accomplishing this at a remarkably approachable price. Much as I respect Burgundy (and California) wines, the amount of Pinot Noir quality-for-dollar in this