Frei João, Bairrada Tinto

Deep in the heart of Portugal’s Bairrada region, Caves São João’s cellar holds a breathtaking collection of library bottles dating back to the 1950s that were purposely hidden away—until recently. In 2013, the world finally caught a glimpse of them: The owners, resolute in holding back the lion’s share, finally decided to reveal their perfectly preserved wine antiques to the public in small waves. Since that time, only a lucky few have discovered these gems, yet all have learned of the fascinating, subtly complex allure of mature Bairrada. Today’s 1985 Frei João Tinto couldn’t encapsulate that statement more: It is graceful, wildly perfumed, and built with a sturdy foundation that has effortlessly seen it through three decades and counting. For the many who have never tasted Baga, the signature grape of Bairrada, it’d be hard not to feel spoiled by today’s library release offer—it’s rare, wonderfully affordable, and an exemplar of world-class, mature red wine. And for the few that have