Weingut Haack, Riesling Alte Reben (Old Vines)

Riesling may be the best grape of all when it comes to snapping the taster to attention. Between its exuberant aromas and laser-beam freshness, today’s old-vine (alte reben) Riesling from Haack grabbed me by the lapels and commanded my attention. The salivary response was instantaneous, my palate was awake, and I thought: Now this is why we drink wine!I don’t know about you, but I want to be moved by a wine. And perhaps no grape does that quite like German Riesling. The variety’s uncommon natural acidity and wide range of possible sugar contents might scare off the faint of heart. But those privy to Riesling’s secrets anticipate age-worthy, balanced, and food-friendly wine at any level of residual sugar; wine to remind you why you loved it in the first place. Today’s offering does exactly that. This electric old-vine Riesling from Nahe is the tiniest bit shy of dry, packed with power and finesse in equal measure. With four years of age already softening its edges, this wine is entering