Poço do Lobo, Bairrada Reserva

When Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate recently tasted today’s 24-year-old reserva from Bairrada, they claimed “it’ll easily last another 15 to 20 years.” Just let that soak in for a moment: This authentic Portuguese stunner is nearly a quarter-century old and likely has another quarter to go. Now, factor in the miraculously low price and if that doesn’t blow your mind, then I must assume that a multi-generations-old, chameleonic, profoundly elegant red isn’t your thing. If, however, this has caught your attention, read on to discover one of wine’s most captivating stories.Deep in the heart of Bairrada, Portugal, Caves São João has secretly preserved an extensive collection of bottles dating back to the 1950s, and the owners only began releasing them to the public in 2013. When their doors finally opened, it wasn’t to a red carpet and trumpeting horns; rather, several safeguards were implemented to ensure only small amounts would trickle out at a time. Today’s 1996 Poço do Lobo—a bucolic e