Baracchi, Toscana IGT “O’Lillo!”

A long time ago, in a land far away, someone coined the term “super-Tuscan” to describe a new generation of game-changing red blends coming out of Tuscany, Italy. There’s no official definition of what super-Tuscans are, but one thing most of them are is expensive. A lot of them are worth it, but what we have today is something completely different—a sleek, sophisticated, fully realized super-Tuscan stunner for just $25.It’s fitting that Baracchi put an exclamation point on “O’Lillo!” because this is a value worth shouting about (I’m not going to resort to ALL CAPS, because that would be untoward, but I’m tempted). This red blend from the rolling hills of Cortona takes a few pages from the traditional super-Tuscan playbook (“international” varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah; an acclaimed winemaking consultant in Stefano Chioccioli) but leaves others behind (long aging in expensive oak). The result is a wine that strips away some of the “luxury” trappings of the category in