Tornesi, Rosso da Tavola “Il Canto del Cucolo”

The Tornesi winery in Montalcino, Tuscany, does one thing—Sangiovese—and does it very, very well. From just five hectares of organically farmed vineyards, they produce stellar Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino and, from their younger plantings, today’s un-oaked expression of pure Sangiovese joy.This bright and brambly red is not the kind of wine that gets 100 points from critics, but a more perfect ‘table wine’ you will not find. In fact, if wines were rated based solely on the enjoyment they provided (versus the intricacies of their construction), Tornesi’s “Il Canto del Cucolo” would undoubtedly be a 100-pointer. Over the course of about a year, we’ve tasted our way through Tornesi’s lineup in what might be called “reverse” order: We were infatuated with their Brunello di Montalcino, fell in love with their Rosso di Montalcino, then this wine comes along—the least-expensive one in the bunch, essentially a bottling of whatever didn’t make it into the other two—and, well, I’m ready to g