Suertes del Marqués, “Medianías” Listán Negro

I’m not going to say we’re rubber-stamping them, but the old-vine gems from Jonatan García Lima’s Suertes del Marqués are close to “automatic” at this point. The fact that I’ve seen this winery and its breathtaking vineyards plays a big role, but in the end, it’s what’s in the bottle: wine so evocative, so rare, so delicious, and so well-priced we can’t possibly pass up an opportunity to feature it. With Suertes del Marqués, this goes for reds and whites alike; I don’t think I’ve ever seen Jonatan hit a false note, and with “Medianías,” he has really outdone himself.Crafted from 100% Listán Negro grown in the Valle de la Orotava, on the island of Tenerife, this brambly, smoky, peppery red is a standout in any tasting, no matter what’s on the table (in fact, I’ve been on a hot streak of late identifying Canary Islands reds blind). Few red wines in the world have such a readily identifiable soil character, and even fewer can deliver this 2018’s level of old-vine profundity at just $32. “