V Puro, “Doravante” Branco

Many of my all-time favorite summer whites (Muscadet; Chablis; Santorini Assyrtiko) have a sneaky way of packing in so much saline minerality and freshness that it’s easy to overlook how beautifully textured and complex they actually are—but it’s impossible to miss “Doravante.” Not only did this quench my thirst with the best of them, it single-handedly inspired me to add it to my warm-weather rotation.This deeply mineral white blend comes from V Puro, the passion project of two forward-thinking vintners who tapped into the incredible potential of Bairrada’s windswept coastal vineyards, limestone-rich clay soils, and fascinating indigenous varieties. Young-vine Arinto is blended with ancient Bical and Cercial vines that reach up to 120 years of age, creating a succulent, citrus-drenched wine with razor-sharp acidity and sea-spray tang. Over my career, I’ve learned the best Bairrada brancos can be categorically Burgundian with a scintillating maritime twist, and Doravante’s breathtaking