Cascina Val del Prete, Nebbiolo d'Alba

In recent years, lovers of Barolo have migrated northward in search of great Nebbiolo-based wines at less-prohibitive prices. The upper reaches of the Piedmont region (more northerly appellations like Gattinara and Ghemme) have become hot destinations, but many Nebbiolo aficionados have failed to look much closer to home for their value fix: Roero. The Roero DOCG is literally Barolo’s backyard, picking up where Barolo leaves off on the north side of the Tanaro River. It’s a wilder, less traveled landscape, with fewer signposts for wineries dotting every corner, but as I’ve experienced time and again, the best wines of Roero cede nothing to those of their more-famous neighbors—except, of course, for the prices they’re able to fetch in the market. Today’s beautifully finessed 2015 from Cascina Val di Prete is Roero at the very top of its game, a true conversation-piece wine at a remarkable price. If you are a seasoned Nebbiolo drinker, you will find it fascinating, and if you’re an occas