Brovia, Roero Arneis

Off the top of my head, I can think of four legendary Barolo producers who not only make a delicious white from Arneis but may sell more Arneis than Barolo: Bruno Giacosa, Ceretto, Vietti, and today’s featured producer, Brovia. I’d also be willing to bet that these Arneis wines were the first introduction many people got to these iconic wineries. But even if not, I look at a bottle of Brovia Arneis and, given what I know about their reds, I have an expectation of excellence.Not surprisingly, they deliver, and in so doing they remind us of the treasure to be found in Roero, the appellation on the opposite side of the Tànaro River. And while Brovia is recognized as one of the Arneis elite, their production is relatively small, totaling about 4,500 bottles a year from a .8-hectare vineyard in the village of Vezza d’Alba. Yes, they farm this old-vine site, and vinify the resultant wine, with as much care and classicism as their Barolos. It’s clear for anyone to see, and if you’re inclined