Paul Anheuser, Schlossböckelheimer Riesling Kabinett

There’s a colossal amount of intrigue to unpack in today’s parcel of antique Riesling, so let's begin with the most obvious specs: This is a 26-year-old, cellar-direct wine available for $29, and that alone should be enough to entice you. If not, then let’s factor in the iconic producer: The Anheusers have been farming the steep slopes of Germany’s Nahe for 14 consecutive generations, and each remarkable bottle we’ve discovered over the years has raised the price-to-quality benchmark for mature, off-dry Riesling. I assure you this doesn’t look or taste like a 26-year-old wine, but it delivers a substantially long and indelibly savory finish that can only come from perfect storage and extreme aging.And if that still isn’t enough to grab your attention, consider the following “insider information,” which can only be learned if tapping the winemaker’s shoulder: Although listed as a “village” wine, today’s ’95 Kabinett comes entirely from “Felsenberg.” For those unaware, this is a Grosse L