Suertes del Marqués, Valle de la Orotava “Trenzado” Blanco

There’s so much “somewhere-ness” to this white from Suertes del Marqués it shouts it from the rooftops, and when you learn that the somewhere in question is the remote Canary Islands—and that the wine can be had for such a reasonable price—you can’t help but be blown away. There are many wine regions where the produce doesn’t live up to the history, or the setting, but on the island of Tenerife, there is a renaissance underway. One of the in-demand stars of this movement is Jonatan García Lima of Suertes del Marqués.Set among vineyards that spill down steep hillsides towards the Atlantic—many of them trained in the traditional cordón trenzado method, wherein the “arms” (cordons) of the grapevine are fashioned into long, winding braids—Suertes del Marqués has introduced the broader wine world to the Valle de la Orotava, an appellation on the cooler, northern end of the island. In the dark, ashy volcanic soils formed by the nearby Teide volcano, Jonathan works with native varieties such