Philippe Foreau, Vouvray Brut

Every critic worth their salt fervently agrees that Philippe Foreau is among Vouvray’s most celebrated living legends. Today’s offer, however, is a rare look at what happens when his scintillating dry Chenin Blanc is transformed into a barrel-fermented, long-aged sparkler à la Champagne. There’s no other way to say this: The past two vintages of Foreau’s Brut bottling have been pure insanity for the price, as they’ve contained three-dimensional depth and a profound sense of pedigree that outclasses an alarming number of Champagnes.Just look at the embarrassment of riches in this epic 2014 bottling: premium Chenin fruit; six-month vinification in French barrels; six years in bottle; and, in this fantastic vintage, no dosage. Although we weren’t quick enough to secure the first tranche, the fresher second shipment has just arrived stateside. I promise it’ll make Champagne lovers extraordinarily happy, especially when learning it’s still comfortably—and illogically—priced in the $40s. Pro