Renzo Castella, Langhe Nebbiolo “Madonnina”

Cappellano, Fabio Gea, Canonica, Soldera, Montevertine: Nearly a decade ago, one salesman brought these Italian icons to SommSelect’s doorstep and we are forever grateful because these ever-rarer wines now enjoy a cult following so rabid, that all who acquire an allocation consider it a small miracle. Four years ago, that same man left those cult labels behind and began scouring the hillsides of Tuscany and Piedmont to create his own affordable roster of “epiphany wines.” When he arrived in the latter, he didn’t need to search far to find Signore Castella’s spectacular $29 Nebbiolo, as it was a spiritual and geographical neighbor to a couple of Barolo’s most revered names. Castella’s tiny “Madonnina” parcel is a stone’s toss from the vines that produce Canonica’s $225 “Grinzane Cavour” bottling and it also hugs the border of Serralunga d’Alba, home to the legend that is Cappellano. So yes, today is one of those special days when everyone wins. Patient collectors with deep cellars, ter