Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot, Fleurie “Origines”

It was just a few years ago that we were announcing Grégoire Hoppenot as the brightest rising star in the Beaujolais firmament. After repeated offerings of his pitch-perfect reds from Fleurie and Morgon, there’s no longer a need for the “rising” qualifier—the guy’s at the top, having firmly established himself as a supernova. His wines continue their red-hot streak with the critically revered 2020 release of “Origines,” a $29 cuvée assembled from a selection of Cru Fleurie’s finest parcels. Both the farming and winemaking are as rigorous and detailed as the site selection, between working organically in the vineyards and in the cellar where he crafts a style described as being sans fard (“without makeup”). I can’t resist repeating that in just about every Hoppenot offer we do since it’s abundantly clear that the focus is on seamlessly marrying the incredible purity of fruit and primacy of terroir. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, you should go deep on this offering—at jus