2018 Cantina Horus, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico “Pittore Contadino”

A couple of decades ago Sicilian wine got almost zero respect from the wine cognoscenti. Ironically, a lot of it left the island in bulk, to be blended anonymously into wines that were treated with respect–but that’s all in the past. Sicily is a world-class wine destination, capable of across-the-board excellence (white, red, sparkling, sweet, you name it), and one of the totems of Sicilian wine is Cerasuolo di Vittoria. This classic and highly intuitive blend of the native reds Nero d’Avola and Frappato has been hiding in plain sight for decades, proving unequivocally that Sicily can do finesse and nuance long before Etna Rosso became the trendy sommelier pick. Our hands down favorite version hails from Cantina Horus, with what amounts to an Emeritus Professor giving a master class on the style. Giuseppe Romano is the veteran vignaiolo behind Cantina Horus, and “Pittore Contadino,” despite all the worthy competition, may be the ultimate expression of Cerasuolo di Vittoria. It’s a limi