Bodegas Magaña, Gran Reserva

It was only a few years ago that I had my first taste of Magaña, which is something I’m still a little embarrassed about. How could I, a wine-industry lifer and a notorious bargain hunter, not know about the magnificent values coming out of this historic property? Instead of dwelling on it, let’s instead feast our eyes on today’s special offer, a 22-year-old heart-stopper that was held back in the cellar before Juan Magaña deemed it ready for sale.Aside from some of Magaña’s contemporaries in neighboring Rioja, how many wineries are willing to hold precious inventory for so long? (Answer: not many.) Back in 1970, Juan brought Merlot cuttings from Pomerol’s Château Pétrus to plant in Navarra, along with Cabernet and other varieties from even further afield, creating Bordeaux-inspired blends that compete with the likes of Vega Sicilia for a tiny fraction of the price. This is a wine that checks every box in grand style: immensely pleasurable, intellectual, affordable, properly cellared…j