Gianluigi Lano, Barbaresco "Rocche Massalupo"

If you love Piedmontese Nebbiolo from Barolo and Barbaresco but also tend to be impatient, the 2018 vintage is one to embrace: The wines are elegant, aromatic, and, by Nebbiolo standards, approachable now, so today’s single-vineyard stunner from Gianluigi Lano isn’t just an incredible value but one you can celebrate right away.  It’s drinking beautifully, it’s loaded with perfume, and it perfectly captures the lithe “feminity” of Barbaresco relative to Barolo. Sourced from a cru vineyard called “Rocche Massalupo” and farmed in a manner that is best described as ultra-natural, this wine, and this producer, is a fast-rising star on the Italian wine scene—a darling of the natural wine set whose exceptionally pure, precise wines also appeal to more “mainstream” palates. When a wine like this is set on the table, it tends to leave everything around it in its wake, lingering on your palate and in your memory like few red wines can, and it does so at a rather forgettable price. Get some in yo