Perillo, Taurasi Riserva DOCG

Taurasi is one of Southern Italy’s most iconic and long-lived red wines, and there’s no better time to drink one than right now: The effect of this wine on a cold day is akin to that of a can of spinach on Popeye—it’s a fortifying, full-body experience. But this wine from the excellent small estate of Michele Perillo is more than just big and bold. Italian wine lovers lovingly refer to Taurasi as the “Barolo of the South,” with Campania’s native Aglianico grape taking the scepter, so to speak, from Piedmont’s Nebbiolo. Perillo’s Taurasi Riserva from 2012 leaves no doubt that Aglianico is one of Italy’s most “noble” red varieties, right up there with both Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, but, comparatively speaking, Aglianico wines are not as revered as those others. But make no mistake: This is a first-class Italian “collectible” that easily stacks up to the Barolos, Brunellos, Bordeaux—you name it—in a well-curated cellar. Decant this brooding beauty and buckle up: You’re in for a heck of a r