Tiziano Mazzoni, Ghemme DOCG “Ai Livelli”

In the climate change era, all manner of regions once considered marginal are now basking in the limelight—or sunlight, if you will. The so-called Alto Piemonte, the “upper” part of Italy’s Piedmont region, is one such place, and we celebrate it often. Clustered around the Sesia River north of the city of Novara, the assorted wine appellations of the Alto Piemonte are prime hunting ground for value, and the Ghemme DOCG has proved especially fertile. Like the other northern Piedmont appellations, Ghemme is tiny (vineyard acreage has shrunk to almost nothing) and yet it has produced its fair share of new sensations in recent years—including the stellar wines of Tiziano Mazzoni. This single-vineyard, old-vine masterpiece, “ai Livelli,” is Mazzoni’s top wine and much more than just a “Barolo alternative.” This is a distinct expression of Nebbiolo that stands on its own merits and it’s a must-have for anyone who loves this grape and place. Tiziano Mazzoni is a modern-day back-to-the-lander