Meursault Rouge "Clos des Mouches" (Monopole), Germain 2018

Germain's family is the sole owner of Clos des Mouches, a Meursault rarity in that it's planted entirely to Pinot Noir. In this case, those Pinot Noir vines average fifty years of age, and as befits a red Burgundy from terroir that normally yields white grapes, there's a lift and almost Volnay-like elegance here. Superb! Last tasted in January, 2025, and it's achingly pure, tender and ethereal. There's a subtle, yet persistent Côte de Beaune sappiness underlying everything now, giving the wine a clear identity and expression of place.