Bichi "No Sapiens" 2023

Dolcetto from 85 year-old vines in the San Antonio la Miñas vineyard in Ensenada. When cuttings from Italy were shipped over by an oenologist in the 1940s, all the different varieties got mixed up on the voyage, so it was only in the past few years that these grapes were identified as Dolcetto. "No Sapiens" is made in a traditional Beaujolais carbonic method as employed by producers like Lapierre. It's light and elegant but has complex, darker hues and some fine, grippy tannins. Blueberry, rooibos, and black tea notes with umami. Zero sulfur added but zero funk at the moment; just plenty of soul. ~Jonathan Kemp