Domaine Mathieu Cosme Vouvray Fines Bulles NV

Domaine de Beaumont is located just outside of Noizay, a village fronting the Loire in the far southeastern corner of Vouvray. Founded in 1930, it is currently headed by the fifth generation of the Cosme family, Mathieu. After a degree in enology and an étage of Domaine Huet, Mathieu has made a name for himself by making powerful, dry, and precise cuvées of Chenin Blanc from 13 hectares of vineyards with ideal southern and southeastern exposure – wines that suit a former rugby player who is more comfortable behind a horse-drawn plow than behind a desk – or a dinner table rather than a tasting table for that matter. It is a cliché to view a vigneron’s wines as a reflection of their physicality and personality, but this is the indelible human element to terroir. At Domaine de Beaumont under Mathieu Cosme, this is doubly so. At first blush, the wines are not only substantial and impressively nuanced renditions of terroir, but they also develop in the glass (and in the bottle!), revealing