Trongsa Choekhor Rabtentse Dzong, 2004

Trongsa Dzong is Bhutan's largest monastery-fortress. A temple was first established at the location in 1543 by the Drukpa lama, Ngagi Wangchuk. In 1647, his great-grandson, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of Bhutan, built a massive dzong to replace it. Trongsa provides a strategically central location to control the country. For centuries it was the seat of the Wangchuck dynasty who ruled over much of eastern and central Bhutan, and from 1907 have been Bhutan’s Kings. During the 5th King’s tour when he was Crown Prince and the nation was celebrating his investiture, he stopped for several days in Trongsa where he was declared Penlop, Governor of his ancestral realm. He entered Trongsa on foot, the narrow road lined with villagers offering special dishes and home-brewed drinks. The Prince stopped to taste each family’s offering and return words of thanks. In the afternoon he played basketball with the local high school team. That night, after a late meal, I stood on the upstairs