Dehours Œil de Perdrix Extra Brut Champagne NV (750 ml)

showing nicely, unwinding in the glass with scents of raspberries, fresh peach and mandarin oil. Medium to full-bodied, taut and incisive, it’s tightly wound, with racy acids and a pretty pinpoint mousse. There’s less flesh on the wine’s structural bones here than in last year’s disgorgement, but it should unwind nicely with time in the cellar.