1998 Aged Dong Ding
The dry leaves in a hot gaiwan give off a very unique smell that I've come to think of as 'soda' or 'seltzer'. I don't know exactly how to describe it, other than it has a distinctive minerally quality that is almost effervescent. I've only ever tasted it in aged teas that were initially roasted fairly dark but were never re-roasted. This is a good example of that. It was originally charcoal roasted to about the level I do a Noah's Dong Ding, getting the tea very dry so that as it aged it never developed those unpleasant sour tastes. It does have a tartness - a hallmark of aged oolong - but it is a pleasant tartness that stimulates salivation and is also not overwhelming. The tea is very mild and clean tasting, owning a zen-like character that I find very appealing in aged tea. It reminds me of a river rock the way you see it through clear running water. What I mean is the roasting and the aging have pealed away the unnecessary layers to reveal a quiet, solid nature at the center of th