2022 Cantina Olivella, Piedirosso Vesuvio Rosso "Vipt"

The still active volcano of Vesuvio (Vesuvius) has been planted to grape vines for thousands of years, despite the obvious threat looming far beneath the surface. The vineyard sources for Olivella’s “Vipt” come from the slopes of Monte Somma, geologically the oldest part of Vesuvius, and range in altitude from 900 to 1,800 feet of elevation. The local grape, Piedirosso (“red feet”) was named by none other than Roman writer Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historia, referring to the red stalks of the variety’s grape bunches. Although there’s no known genetic connection, Piedirosso often feels like a less-intense version of Aglianico: there’s dark berry fruit, spice, tannin, and a hint of smoke. Typically blended with Aglianico in the red version of Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, this is a relatively rare “varietal” version. “Vipt” is a play on Neapolitan dialect for “to drink,” and more specifically, to drink with pleasure. Winemaking is fully geared toward this playful pun: The fruit is