A Length of Twice Dyed Katazome: Tortoiseshell Pattern

late nineteenth, early twentieth century29" x 13", 73.5 cm x 33 cm This is a length of blue-on-blue indigo dyed cotton katazome cloth, the blue-on-blue technique is referred to as ai gaeshi or, said another way, it is "twice dyed." The pattern is complex. It is a large scale pattern of hexagons which, in the Japanese vernacular, is a short hand for tortoise shell. This kind of tortoise-related pattern was meant to convey a wish for long life. Inside each of the hexagons is a pattern of interlocking circles, a Buddhist motif. And inside, at the center, of the hexagons is a four petaled flower, probably what is known as a "melon" flower. The length is slightly faded and shows one snag which is pictured here on the attendant detail images. This piece of old katazome certainly packs a punch with its many-layered motifs and its richly colored surface.